Introduction

If you’re dreaming of a place steeped in history, draped in Spanish moss, full of beauty, charm and hospitality, Savannah, Georgia should be on your travel list. If you Google the most beautiful cities in the United States Savannah always ranks at the top.

Arrival and First Impressions

We stayed at the Andaz, part of the Hyatt chain, which has a first floor restaurant and a pool terrace a couple floors up. The location is perfect as it is next to City Market and a block from River Street and the Riverfront. More on those areas later.

We quickly settled in, getting there was quick and easy through a direct United Airlines flight from Washington Dulles International Airport in Sterling, Virginia. Arriving in Savannah, I was immediately struck by the lush canopy of live oaks and the gentle sway of Spanish moss overhead. The city’s historic district, with its cobblestone streets and stately mansions, felt like stepping into a different era.

Historic Squares and Strolls

One of Savannah’s unique features is its 22 historic squares, each with its own story and character. The Andaz’s restaurant is called “22 Square Restaurant” in honor of that. The squares are everywhere. The most famous probably is Chippewa Square, known as the backdrop for the iconic bench scenes in Forrest Gump. The bench is no longer on Chippewa Square, but our tour guide said you can see the bench at the mini museum at the Savannah Visitor’s Center.

Discovering River Street and the Riverfront

No visit to Savannah would be complete without a stroll along the iconic River Street. This bustling, cobblestone promenade runs parallel to the Savannah River and is lined with centuries-old warehouses that have been transformed into lively shops, art galleries, pubs, and restaurants. The gentle hum of the riverboats and the vibrant energy of street performers make River Street a sensory delight, whether you’re browsing for unique souvenirs, sampling local cuisine, or simply soaking in the sunset over the water.

We immediately headed over to River Street for dinner and strolled around taking in the architecture, cobblestone streets, riverfront, and seeing ships sailing by.

Nightlife and Entertainment: Savannah Smiles Dueling Pianos

On our first night, and on two other nights, we ventured to Savannah Smiles Dueling Pianos which is located about three minutes from River Street and not far from several downtown hotels. This lively venue is famous for its interactive dueling piano shows, where talented musicians take song requests and engage the crowd with infectious enthusiasm and playful banter. The atmosphere is casual and welcoming, making it easy to join in the singing and laughter as the pianists alternate between rock classics, pop hits, and beloved ballads. The breadth of songs was impressive—one the singers even knew the Philadelphia Eagle’s song! –as was the quality of the singing. The crowds are diverse, from college kids, bachelorette and bachelor parties to senior citizens.

There is a limited food menu available. The place fills up fast so if you want to have choice about seating, or are coming with a group, get there early. If you are going solo or are a duo you should be able to at least find space sitting on the rail on the bar side. Another thing to be aware of is the venue is not open to the public each day. It holds events on other days but is open to the public only on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just looking to enjoy unforgettable live music, Savannah Smiles offers a fun, unique night out that captures the city’s vibrant spirit.

A Step Back in Time: The American Prohibition Museum

Among Savannah’s most unique attractions is the American Prohibition Museum, located in the heart of City Market. The museum is billed as the only comprehensive prohibition museum. Stepping inside, I was transported to the roaring twenties, a time of flappers, jazz, and speakeasies—but also of temperance rallies and the national ban on alcohol. The museum’s immersive exhibits, vintage artifacts, and costumed docents bring the era to life with interactive storytelling. I learned about the fascinating history of Prohibition, its social impact, its rise and fall, and how it shaped American culture. At the end of the tour, you can visit the museum’s hidden speakeasy, where guests can sample classic cocktails and soak up the ambiance of a bygone age.

Behind the speakeasy there is a small exhibit on moonshiners during Prohibition and their role in the origins of NASCAR racing through legends like Junior Johnson. As a NASCAR fan I enjoyed that!

While packing a lot of value the museum is not large, so it does not take much time. It should be essential stop for all visitors to Savanah because of the quality of the museum and the unique subject covered.

The Charm of City Market

Another highlight was the historic City Market, is a four-block area between Ellis and Franklin Squares that has been a social and commercial hub since the 1700s. City Market is where the American Prohibition Museum is located and is alive with studios, shops, restaurants and other eateries, bars, and live music. In the evenings, the market comes alive, with twinkling lights overhead and the sound of laughter spilling out from bustling patios. The area is very walkable as the blocks are closed off from vehicular traffic. It’s the perfect place to immerse yourself in Savannah’s creative spirit and warm community vibe.

Trolley History Tour

After the Prohibition Museum we hopped on an trolley history tour via Old Town Trolley Tours. The tour is “hop on, hop off” so you can get on at many places in downtown. The first stop is the Visitor’s Center, but we got on at one of the stops near City Market. The trolley history tour in Savannah was an excellent introduction to the city’s rich past. The experience began with a friendly guide who brought the historical sites to life with vivid storytelling and a touch of humor. The trolley itself was comfortable and air-conditioned, making it a pleasant way to explore Savannah’s famous squares and antebellum architecture. The tour covers all the main tourist areas of Savannah and provides plenty of information to help you to understand the history and culture of the city while going through many picturesque neighborhoods. This tour is perfect for first-time visitors or anyone wanting a broad overview of Savannah’s history without a lot of walking. I left with a deeper appreciation for the city’s heritage and plenty of ideas for places to revisit.

E. Shaver Booksellers: Books and Cats

A good stop for book and cat lovers alike is E. Shaver Booksellers. Visiting E. Shaver is an opportunity to support an independent bookstore while with a unique twist: cats. The bookstore is home to four cats who have the run of the place and are featured in the bookstore’s logo and merchandise.  

True Crime Pub Crawl

We for the first time did a true crime pub crawl through Mad Cat Tours. The true crime pub crawl was a unique blend of history, mystery, and socializing. Our guide led us to several bars, each with its own story connected to Savannah’s darker past. None of the two bars were including, to give you a sense of the range, a small dive, an elegant wine bar and a crowded, loud Irish pub known for karaoke nights. Between pub stops, we heard about infamous crimes, unsolved mysteries, and notorious figures who once roamed the city such as the I-95 serial killer. The guide was a natural storyteller, mixing historical facts with dramatic flair, and encouraged lively discussion among the group. This tour is ideal for adults who enjoy learning about the city’s seedier side while sampling Savannah’s vibrant nightlife.

Savannah permits open containers of alcohol in the main tourist part of the city. So many people on the tour took their drinks and walked around with them. We went on a summer Friday night, so a lot of time was consumed by the stops because it took people a long time to order. The tour could save time by removing a stop or two but as mentioned above the aim appears to be to have a stop suited for each person.

It was both entertaining and enlightening, and I’d highly recommend it for fans of true crime and history.

Walking Ghost Tour in Haunted Savannah

Savannah has a reputation as one of America’s most haunted cities so it is no surprise the city is big for ghost tours boasting 18 ghost tours to choose from. We did The Beyond Good and Evil Tour from Ghost City Tours. A walking ghost tour is an fun way to experience Savannah after dark and the city’s architecture, charm, and Spanish moss provides a perfect backdrop to tours. Our guide was engaging and knowledgeable, weaving together ghost stories, legends, and documented hauntings that spanned centuries. As we meandered through cobblestone streets and shadowy squares, the city’s haunted reputation came alive. Stops tended to be in the city’s beautiful squares talking about things that happened at or near that location. You will encounter numerous ghost tours taking place simultaneously. The eerie ambiance provides a chance to see Savannah’s historic district in a new light.

Telfair Museums

Telfair Museums is a trio of cultural landmarks that stand as a testament to the city’s rich history and vibrant artistic community. Comprising the Telfair Academy, the Jepson Center, and the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters, the museums offer a diverse array of experiences for art lovers, history buffs, and curious visitors alike. We were able to go to the Telfair Academy and the Jepson Center but ran out of time to go to the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters. Your ticket will cover admission to all three venues.

The Jepson Center is a strikingly modern building that opened in 2006. Its contemporary design stands in contrast to the historic streets of Savannah, symbolizing the city’s embrace of innovation while honoring tradition. The Jepson Center was not that interesting to us and there was not that much artwork. However, if you have children then you should check out the Jepson Center. It has several features that are entertaining and educational for young children at the Children’s Art Museum at Jepson.

The Telfair Academy (Academy) is the oldest public art museum in the South. Housed in the former Telfair family home that was built in 1818, it opened as an art museum in 1886. The Academy features period rooms and a notable collection of 19th- and 20th-century American and European art, including paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts. The Academy includes an exhibit on the Midnight in the Garden of Evil, a book that was turned into a 1997 movie starring John Cusack and Kevin Spacey. The Academy’s architecture and historic ambiance add to its charm.

Riverboat Cruise

Embarking on a riverboat cruise in Savannah, Georgia, is a quintessential way to experience the city’s historic charm and scenic beauty. The cruise typically departs from River Street, a lively area bustling with shops, musicians, and local artisans. As you board, you’re greeted by the classic design of the paddlewheel riverboat—a nod to Savannah’s storied nautical past. The tour is done by Savannah Riverboat Cruises and features a large, multilevel riverboat. Several cruises are offered. We chose the sightseeing cruise. The riverboat boasts a full bar and grill and a separate ice cream stand.

The journey along the Savannah River offers picturesque views of the city’s skyline, historic buildings, and the iconic Talmadge Memorial Bridge. The top deck provides the best views and includes classic riverboat smokestacks (that are there for cosmetic reasons) but be sure to bring hats and remember your sunscreen because the sun will bear down on you! The tour narrator is knowledgeable and funny with plenty of dad jokes (in a good way).

Savoring Southern Flavors

No visit to Savannah is complete without indulging in some classic Southern cuisine. The Grey is one of Savannah’s most acclaimed dining destinations, set in a beautifully restored 1938 Art Deco Greyhound bus terminal. The restaurant’s ambiance is a blend of historic elegance and modern sophistication, with thoughtful touches that pay homage to its past. You can still see the bus gates.

We went to the Grey for Sunday brunch. There was live music playing, a packed crowd between the dining tables and the bar in the middle of the main room. At one point a senior citizen left the bar to sing. She did well and got a loud round of applause afterwards. Our waitress was professional and very friendly. Whether you’re a food enthusiast or simply seeking a memorable dining experience in Savannah, The Grey consistently delivers on all fronts—making it a great choice for someone looking for a unique dining experience and setting.

Vic’s is good as well. There are two Vic’s. Vic’s on the River appears to be the larger of the two. We wound up going to Vic’s River Grill because it fronts River Street and is more noticeable. The Grill has a nice touch to it with a piano providing a unique type of live music.

22 Square Restaurant at the Andaz also was excellent.  There is one other note restaurant but that will have to wait for the next section.

Forsyth Park and the Collins Quarter

Forsyth Park, an expansive green oasis in the heart of Savannah, is a must-see for visitors and locals alike. It reminded me of a much smaller version of Central Park. The famous white fountain—an emblem of the city—anchors the park, surrounded by winding walking paths beneath towering oaks and bursts of color from carefully tended gardens. Sadly, for us, the fountain was closed for repairs when I was in Savannah.

The restaurant, like Central Park with the Tavern on the Green, has its flagship restaurant, The Collins Quarter. The Collins Quarter is beautiful with a relaxed, stylish atmosphere which includes a large outdoor dining area. Savoring a meal at an outdoor table, with the park’s beauty just steps away, perfectly captured the essence of Savannah’s laid-back charm.

Forsyth Park and The Collins Quarter are must visit sites. Be aware when making a reservation or taking a ride share to The Collins Quarter that there are two locations. One is called the “downtown” location. The one you want to go to is the Forsyth Park location.

Rooftop Bars: Sipping with a View

One of the most delightful surprises of my Savannah stay was discovering its vibrant rooftop bar scene, which are good opportunities to soak in great views. These elevated venues offer sweeping views of the river, the city’s historic skyline, and the twinkling lights that sparkle after dusk. Most of them are near the riverfront but not all are.

The first rooftop we visited was the Myrtle & Rose which is part of the JW Marriott hotel. Myrtle & Rose is right on the Savannah River and provides excellent views of the river and downtown. The Myrtle & Rose has a rooftop garden and a vibe consistent with that.  We did not have much time outside though, as it began to rain and we had to go inside.

Across from the Andaz and therefore near City Market is Sorry Charlie’s Oyster Bar which has a rooftop bar called The Neon Fish. While The Neon Fish is not that tall, probably four stories high, it has a good location overlooking Ellis Square, views of City Market, and at night you can see the lively nightlife scene in the vicinity. If you are staying at the Andaz, Doubletree, or Hilton Garden Inn this is a good option to wind down the night.

The third rooftop we went to is Peregrin, perched atop the five-star Perry Lane Hotel. Peregrin is not on the riverfront but is in the heart of downtown. As a result, it provides a different vantage point. You get to see lovely, broad views of the downtown area from the perspective of the middle of the city.  Peregrin has a rooftop conservatory theme and a range of seating options.  Of the three Peregrin was my favorite.

Each rooftop provided a great setting to take in Savannah’s beauty from above. Savannah’s rooftop bars are a great choice for any visitor seeking a memorable evening.

Final Thoughts: Why Savannah Captured My Heart

My vacation to Savannah was the perfect blend of culture, relaxation, and adventure. The city’s warmth—both in its climate and its people—made me feel welcome from the moment I arrived. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or simply looking for a charming getaway, Savannah offers a slice of Southern magic that’s impossible to forget. I can’t wait to return!